SURF STORY: Best to Share

Most of the time it is unacceptable to hop (cut-off, snake, take-off in front of...) someone else but in waves this size there are exceptions. You do your best not to go in front of anyone but when the waves are 20'+ and you are already committed there is not much you can do. If you try to pull out after a certain point you most likely will get sucked up over the falls and really put the other person at risk. Or you could pull out to have a bigger wave behind you with guys trying to drop in while you are like a sitting duck. You are better off going and riding the wave together

until you can pull out and hope you do not fall in front of the person behind you.

In this first sequence at Sunset Beach this guy on his 12' elephant gun came from so far behind I did not even see him when I took off. Then I heard him yelling as he came flying up behind me just as the wave was approaching the heavy pitching zone, but it was too late. Oh my God this guy was HUGE! I am gone to guess at least 6'8". I was more scared of him than the wave which hit the inside reef and just launched. I wish I could pull out but there was no opportunity until I got through to the channel. On top of that he was chatting it up with Owl Chapman while he was in the line-up so I know he was more than likely one of the local crew. Who ever you are please forgive me!

In this next sequence on this particular day at the Bay, there were at least 35-40 guys (yes all guys!) out and it was not uncommon to have two or three riders (sometimes more) on one single wave. The wave itself is enough to contend with but adding this many testosterone laden men in with the mix can be really dangerous! With strong off shore winds blowing and a combo swell you better be heads up and on your game. There are also boards flying back from the guys that didn't take enough paddles or bail at the top of the wave deciding they did not want that wave after all.

I was lucky enough on this day to get a half of dozen excellent rides with this being the only one I did not ride alone. Thanks guys! Oh yeah and no wipe outs! either!!!

SURF STORY:Critters in the Water

I have surfed all around the world in daylight and by moonlight and have had more close encounters than i care to think about! Being grateful is one of the keys to a happy life and I am grateful everyday as often as I can think about it. At any moment anything can change so learn to live and appreciate the moment.

Having what you think are logs suddenly sink underwater and disappear while you are paddling out in a Costa Rican river mouth around 4:00 a.m is one of those moments where you realize how quickly things can change, for better or worse. Feeling your whole foot inside the mouth of something during red tide when you can't see your own leg in the orange murky waters right here in Newport is another. We already discussed being bumped by a big shark here too! And here I thought it was a dead ocean!

I have had more shark sightings, sea snakes, crocs and even weird unidentifiable albino snake/eels at Bolsa Chica dealings for a life time. I see sharks where locals swear they don't exist. (even Santa Cruz every surf session but I don't believe them there). I have had sharks circle me, a pack of them circling in the line-up when I am the only one out on an outer reef 2 miles out to sea. I've had one swim so close I could kick it when I was surfing on a 4'4 waist deep with no way to put my arms and legs up (one good reason to ride a longboard) deep down in Mexico. A pelican dive bomb for a fish missing my head by inches, sting rays bumping into my shins, stone fish hiding under my feet, sea urchins poking me and lots of poisons animals the natives have pointed out but I could understand what they were saying! Should I go on? "What is it? Why me? Am I more aware or do my own fears bring it on?

My only defense is to love all the CRITTERS IN THE WATER unconditionally and be detached from the outcome.(not as easy for me on land but I am working on it!) Easier said than done but it has kept me alive this long! I still screamed like a little girl yesterday when something swam right into my leg in waist deep water at Huntington Beach.

And you all thought they called me Danger Woman because you thought I was so brave! I just want to surf so I either have to deal with it or stay out of the water and staying out of the water is just not an option!!! Of course i don't have to paddle out into 20' surf either but i am scared either way so I might as well go big!

I know I am Divinely guided and protected. Living so close to death keeps me feeling alive and appreciative for sure.

SURF ART: Underwater Abstract

Underwater Abstract

I have been trying lots of new styles and techniques. Here is one.

SURF ART: Mango Splash

MANGO SPLASH

$1,200.00

ACRYLIC/ CANVAS

24 X 30

BAMBOO FRAME

SURF ART:

The Secret Spot 4" x 4" Oil on Tile

It is amazing that even in the heart of summer I surf alone most of the time in Orange County.

When there is a will, there is a way! Find me if you can!