PAINTING: Art on the Beach

BOLSA AFTER THE STORM

 NOR CAL GLO #2

I drove down to Bolsa Chica yesterday morning to deliver a painting for a new customer of mine (Painted down at trails between surf sessions a couple of weeks ago), when I was unexpectedly invited to a going away party for Yuriko and Danny. Yuriko got a good job in Hawaii so Danny figured why not!!!

To show my appreciation for their Aloha so open heartily welcoming me, I drew them a quick sketch to remember Bolsa by. I had fun drawing on the beach and sharing some of my sketch books with my friends. We all enjoyed the feast they provided!

More and more you will see me painting and drawing on the beach. Feel free to check it out for it may be 

THE ART YOU MUST HAVE!!!

DANGER WOMAN SURF MOVIE: Don't Be A TERB

Many years ago during the making of "SAFE SURFING WITH DANGER WOMAN", an instructional video for the novice surfer, we filmed a comedy stint to put in the film on "WHAT NOT TO DO" It did not make it into the film but I edited it down to a couple of minutes from over an hour of footage.

I still can't believe TERB did this for over an hour!!!

Now you too can watch this short clip on HOW NOT TO SURF on YOUTUBE.

Terb Relmohcszeister DON'T BE A TERB!

PLEASE DO NOT TRY THIS AT HOME

THE ACTORS AND ACTRESS IN THIS FILM ARE PROFESSIONAL KOOKS

LIFE TIP: Emotion Behind the Pain-Enabling

I know I have not blogged for a while now but the surf has been calling me! Although there has been some sizable waves the conditions have not been epic. Still I managed to pick off some good bombs and even a few barrels!

The first day of the last swell I came in with some shoulder pain that became excruciating. I did not want to miss the waves and had no idea how I hurt it? I called my Chiropractor who is also an incredible healer and after she adjustment me she talked me through the emotional issues behind the pain. Not seeing anything apparent at first I soon realized that I was enabling some people and carrying that burden. 

There is a fine balance between helping someone and enabling them. 

As soon as I realized this and got refocused I felt the weight being lifted off of me. Within a few hours I felt much better physically and was able to go surfing the following day! 

I have also been in my creating mode painting and making some of my magical, colorful tiles. Along with writing my book and helping with a movie script I am learning how to network online (Thanks to my kids help!!!).

SURF STORY:Bumped By A Shark

 PHOTO: Tom Cozad www.newportsurfshots.com

It is a new year, new decade in fact. This time of year makes me think of how much I have progressed since the previous year, decade. Life is always about change. You can resist if you want but everything is changing anyhow so it is best to learn to flow. Life is like surfing, the wave is always changing and if you don't flow with it you will be left behind. 

I think the most profound thing that happen to me this past year was getting BUMPED BY A SHARK, enough to knock the wind out of me and bruise a few ribs. I was at 36th Street in Newport Beach and it was about 1:00 in the afternoon. The swell was a solid 4' - 6' with a few bigger sets, the winds put a bump on the surface and with the tide dropping quickly there were a lot of rips and some hard pounding close-outs but there were some good barrels and only one other person out. The guy had wiped out close to the Jetty so I was watching to make sure he was O.K. when I got sucker punched in the kidney area. That was surprising enough knowing no one else was out but when I turned around to see what hit me all I saw was a portion of a big gray shark that was already diving back under the water. It was murky out so that was all I saw but, that was enough. I was pretty much in shock. It happen so fast I couldn't believe it. I told the other surfer that I just got hit by a BIG SHARK and he scrambled onto his board and frantically paddled in before all the words were even out of my mouth! 

Always following my intuition I knew to get out of the water but I also knew that I did not want to paddle anywhere near the other guy. I figured if the shark was going to go after anyone it was going to be the one in fear splashing water out of control. I did come in and I did paddle faster than usual but I did it CALMLY AND WITH LOVING THOUGHTS towards the shark as one of my brothers that gave me a friendly bump, warning me to get out of the water for only reasons God knows. It serves me to believe this so I don't go into thoughts of fear. I have seen so many sharks in my life surfing (Even in places where the locals swear there aren't any) that I choose to believe they are here to PROTECT ME, not eat me. I was told once by an old Hawaiian that I was blessed to see sharks and not be eaten for that means they are my Amakua (Guardians). Yet still I handle every situation as it comes up and I have gotten out of the water on many occasions for no apparent reason  just because I was guided by my inner voice to. 

Fortunate for me my chiropractor, friend, was on the beach and I was able to get adjusted immediately! She thought I was rushing in so she wouldn't be late for her next appointment. (Anyone who has ever gone surfing with me knows I am not so prompt about getting out of the water). 

I traveled quite a bit this past year and had an encounters with  crocodiles, numerous sharks, barracudas and even monkeys! But those will be stories for later. What I find most interesting is that of all the places I have been around the world the gnarliest experiences I have ever had have been right here in Newport Beach. The other time when I was sitting on my board and suddenly found my entire foot (Past my ankle) inside the mouth of something. Luckily I scared it as much as it scared me and it let go and swam off but not before its tail or something slapped me in the calf and ripped my wetsuit. It was red tide so it was to murky to see what it was but I am FOREVER GRATEFUL that I still have two feet and am alive to share these stories with you!