SURF STORY: Best to Share

Most of the time it is unacceptable to hop (cut-off, snake, take-off in front of...) someone else but in waves this size there are exceptions. You do your best not to go in front of anyone but when the waves are 20'+ and you are already committed there is not much you can do. If you try to pull out after a certain point you most likely will get sucked up over the falls and really put the other person at risk. Or you could pull out to have a bigger wave behind you with guys trying to drop in while you are like a sitting duck. You are better off going and riding the wave together

until you can pull out and hope you do not fall in front of the person behind you.

In this first sequence at Sunset Beach this guy on his 12' elephant gun came from so far behind I did not even see him when I took off. Then I heard him yelling as he came flying up behind me just as the wave was approaching the heavy pitching zone, but it was too late. Oh my God this guy was HUGE! I am gone to guess at least 6'8". I was more scared of him than the wave which hit the inside reef and just launched. I wish I could pull out but there was no opportunity until I got through to the channel. On top of that he was chatting it up with Owl Chapman while he was in the line-up so I know he was more than likely one of the local crew. Who ever you are please forgive me!

In this next sequence on this particular day at the Bay, there were at least 35-40 guys (yes all guys!) out and it was not uncommon to have two or three riders (sometimes more) on one single wave. The wave itself is enough to contend with but adding this many testosterone laden men in with the mix can be really dangerous! With strong off shore winds blowing and a combo swell you better be heads up and on your game. There are also boards flying back from the guys that didn't take enough paddles or bail at the top of the wave deciding they did not want that wave after all.

I was lucky enough on this day to get a half of dozen excellent rides with this being the only one I did not ride alone. Thanks guys! Oh yeah and no wipe outs! either!!!

SURF STORY:Critters in the Water

I have surfed all around the world in daylight and by moonlight and have had more close encounters than i care to think about! Being grateful is one of the keys to a happy life and I am grateful everyday as often as I can think about it. At any moment anything can change so learn to live and appreciate the moment.

Having what you think are logs suddenly sink underwater and disappear while you are paddling out in a Costa Rican river mouth around 4:00 a.m is one of those moments where you realize how quickly things can change, for better or worse. Feeling your whole foot inside the mouth of something during red tide when you can't see your own leg in the orange murky waters right here in Newport is another. We already discussed being bumped by a big shark here too! And here I thought it was a dead ocean!

I have had more shark sightings, sea snakes, crocs and even weird unidentifiable albino snake/eels at Bolsa Chica dealings for a life time. I see sharks where locals swear they don't exist. (even Santa Cruz every surf session but I don't believe them there). I have had sharks circle me, a pack of them circling in the line-up when I am the only one out on an outer reef 2 miles out to sea. I've had one swim so close I could kick it when I was surfing on a 4'4 waist deep with no way to put my arms and legs up (one good reason to ride a longboard) deep down in Mexico. A pelican dive bomb for a fish missing my head by inches, sting rays bumping into my shins, stone fish hiding under my feet, sea urchins poking me and lots of poisons animals the natives have pointed out but I could understand what they were saying! Should I go on? "What is it? Why me? Am I more aware or do my own fears bring it on?

My only defense is to love all the CRITTERS IN THE WATER unconditionally and be detached from the outcome.(not as easy for me on land but I am working on it!) Easier said than done but it has kept me alive this long! I still screamed like a little girl yesterday when something swam right into my leg in waist deep water at Huntington Beach.

And you all thought they called me Danger Woman because you thought I was so brave! I just want to surf so I either have to deal with it or stay out of the water and staying out of the water is just not an option!!! Of course i don't have to paddle out into 20' surf either but i am scared either way so I might as well go big!

I know I am Divinely guided and protected. Living so close to death keeps me feeling alive and appreciative for sure.

SURF ART: Underwater Abstract

Underwater Abstract

I have been trying lots of new styles and techniques. Here is one.

SURF ART: Mango Splash

MANGO SPLASH

$1,200.00

ACRYLIC/ CANVAS

24 X 30

BAMBOO FRAME

SURF ART:

The Secret Spot 4" x 4" Oil on Tile

It is amazing that even in the heart of summer I surf alone most of the time in Orange County.

When there is a will, there is a way! Find me if you can!

SURF LESSON: SUP Work Out Class

I want to look like this again (not the face part!)

This has photo has motivated me to start a ...

STAND UP PADDLE WORKOUT PROGRAM

Designed for WOMEN 40 YEARS +

­­­­ Get in shape with women your own age.

FIRST CLASS STARTS JULY 20th

These unique classes include stretching; strengthening and balancing exercises that give you a low-impact, full core body work out integrated with stand up paddling.

A great alternative to the gym - Enjoy the Fresh Air

All paddling is done in Huntington Harbor in calm waters.

Cost: $40.00 (SUP Rentals not included)

Pre-registration Required ($10.00 deposit)

Send via Pay Pal to: dangerwoman@earthlink.net

Class Hours:

9:30 – 11:00 Tuesdays and Thursdays

3:00 Wednesdays

Location: OEX Kayak/ Stand UP Paddle Boards

16910 PCH Sunset Beach (HB), CA 92649

Rentals Available Here - $20.00 for Rental

714 417-SURF (7873)

SURF ADVENTURE: The Broken Nose

Pipeline 2005

Back In 2005 They had the first all women's competition at Pipeline in Hawaii. I entered both the longboard and short board divisions hoping to score as many uncrowded waves as I could at Pipe. What I didn't know was that on the day of the finals they put me in back to back heats with no breaks or even time to paddle out. I tried to at least get them to keep me in the same color jersey so I could save time changing. I competed for over 3 hours straight.

In my first longboard heat i got a great Backdoor barrel. Problem was I listen to someone the day before who told me if I did get in the barrel at Backdoor's don't stay in the tube because the reef is too shallow. I KNOW BETTER! Always stay in the tube, it is the safest place to be on a big exploding wave. By all means much safer than the lip (jaws) of the wave.

I stayed in as long as I could then snuck out under the lip to straighten out. Right when I thought I was safe, and luckily already with my hands on the rails, as I was laying prone, the lip of the wave smacked me right between the shoulder blades smashing my face into the deck of my board. I saw a big yellow star just like in the cartoons. I couldn't believe there wasn't blood spurting out of my nose. I did hang on and by the time the jet ski got in to rescue me and the announcer was asking if I was O.K., I had drifted back into the rip and used it to paddle back out and finish my heat.

When I came in to change my jersey for the next heat I had my Chiropractor (Sponsor),

Dr. Kathleen Campbell, on the beach ready to adjust me. I had my hand covering my nose and asked her if she thought it was broken as i took my hand away. I would say by the shocked look on her face there was no doubt MY NOSE WAS BROKEN. She asked to adjust it right then but I just wanted my neck readjusted for I as in a hurry to get out with the other girls that were already out there for the short board heat.

When I caught the rip out again to get in the line-up it was in between heats so I cranked hard and put my own nose back in place, good enough for now anyhow. I continued making heats to the finals for both divisions, wining the longboard division. By the time I surfed in the short board finals the waves had deteriorated and were windy and bumby, I was cold and my back, neck and nose all hurt. This is the first time I said F@$# it in a contest and paddled in before it was over. If the waves were good I would have stuck it out. I placed last in the final.

Needless to say when I was on the podium collecting my trophies, got one extra one for charging the hardest (probably being the oldest competitor on top of it), they asked me what was the secret to my success. I do not remember what I said but I know that I missed an incredible opportunity to plug in my most valuable sponsor, my chiropractor who flew all the way over to Hawaii to adjust me during the competition. MY CHIROPRACTIC ADJUSTMENTS ON THE BEACH BETWEEN HEATS WAS MY WINNING KEY TO SUCCESS!!! I was so bummed afterwards that I did not plug her in (Not as bummed as her, she still gives me a bad time over it!)

I use to be in pain 24/7 for twenty years due to a car accident and thought that was something I would have to live with the rest of my life. I always hurt surfing and tried to hide it from my competitors. REGULAR CHIROPRACTIC CARE has not only helped me be completely pain free but has helped with the proper nerve flow to ALL PARTS OF MY BODY so that my immune system is super strong keeping me healthy, drug free and working at my optimum. THANKS DOC!!!

Kim & Grandma Tootsie with Pipeline Trophies

Oh by the way after about a month I started snoring so loud that I would wake myself up. I had to have her re-break it and adjust it properly!!! Quite painful to say the least! I wish I had let her adjust it that day on the beach!!!

SURF LESSON: Real Life Surf Tips

Photo: Debra Colvin

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Customized surf lessons for those that are serious about enhancing their surfing and want a better understanding about the finer points of surfing and ocean knowledge while developing more style.

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714 417-7873

Evaluation and homework will be given following the lesson so you know where your strengths are and what areas need developing.

“I would love to help you achieve your goal to be a better surfer.”

“I believe anyone can do anything if they believe they can and have the passion to do so.”

-Kim Hamrock

SURF ADVENTURE: Land of the Blonde Fros

I live my life according to my intuition and many times do things that may have no rhyme or reason yet, I am so drawn I know I must trust and follow these inner promptings. I was on the computer one day when a photo of the Solomon Islands popped up on my screen seemingly out of nowhere. I was instantly touched with a feeling of the perfect paradise I have been searching for my entire life.

A very unique quality that these people have from any other culture is that they are of AFRICAN descent but many of them have BLONDE HAIR. It is a stunning look!

This is how it came about that I ended up living with the natives in the Solomon Islands on the island of Melanesia.

I was not at all familiar with the Solomon Islands yet have always had a desire to visit that region of the world, I was thinking more like Bali, Sumatra or Java. Being a surfer for over 30 years there are certain locations that are a must to surf in your life, of course Hawaii being on the top of the list to test your true skills as a surfer in the huge pounding surf of the North Shore of Oahu. Been there done that enough times, I have nothing more to prove! Already having surfed some of the biggest best waves in the world, I now prefer to explore waves that are unknown and may have never been ridden before.

When I first arrived I stayed in Guadalcanal for a couple of days and I racked the brains of a couple of guys who have lived there for years with as many questions as I could think of about the customs and traditions of the people in the Solomon Islands. Being naive to their ways could be a matter of life or death so I was going to learn as much as I could to keep from breaking too many taboos. Who knows what the compensation would be for the slightest infraction? Are there still cannibalistic rituals? I heard white people were too salty. I sure hope so! Compensation is when one of the local village laws is broken and the only way to make things right again is to pay; this could be anything from, a pig or shell money (two most common forms of payment), to clothes and hopefully not my surfboard!

Some customs that directly applied to me were that an unmarried woman should never walk anywhere alone, especially a foreigner, so always have at least one kid with you, for they know where you can and can’t go, for example like onto any feuding villagers property. The women are expected to wear clothes that will cover below their knees (good thing I brought along a couple of lava lavas for my shorts weren't that long). I saw many bare breasted women or wearing scantily covering tops but they all had their knees covered! I was trying to figure out how I was going to go surfing in my bikini!

These were only a few important points I had to remember luckily I am a fast learner and am here to share my stories with you!

SURF ADVENTURE: Going Native

Photo: Ann Newland

I am off to the Jungle to teach the native children how to surf. 

There is no electricity or phones so I will not blog until ???

HAVE A SURFED-OUT SUMMER

D.W.

SURFING TIP: Surfing From Head To Toe

CUT-BACK

I actually wrote this to help the instructors I teach to observe the students more closely so they can troubleshoot any problems they may be having. 

 I thought this would be helpful for you to observe your own BODY POSITIONING so that you can surf more effectively.

HEAD / EYES -LOOK WHERE YOU ARE GOING

NECK - LOOK OVER SHOULDERS

1. MAKE SURE NO ONE IS ON THE WAVE

2. WATCH THE WAVE FOR ANY CHANGES TO HELP JUDGE TIMING ON THE TAKE-OFF

SHOULDERS - USE TO GUIDE DIRECTION YOU WANT TO GO IN 

1. CAN REPRESENT USING LIKE EYES

 2. IF SHOULDERS ARE TOO OPEN MAY CAUSE STUDENT TO FALL BACKWARDS

ELBOWS- TUCK ELBOWS IN TO PREVENT BOARD FROM HITTING STUDENT

1. WHEN GOING THROUGH A WAVE, DUCK-DIVING OR TURTLE TURNING

2. NOT USED TO PUSH-UP OVER A WAVE OR TO GET UP TO FEET

3. WORK LIKE SHOCK ABSORBERS WHEN IN THE PUSH UP STANCE GOING OVER WAVES OR GLIDING BEFORE GETTING UP ON FEET.

WRIST - STRONG AND FIRM FOR PADDLING ( IF LOOSE IT IS LIKE HAVING A BROKEN OAR THAT WON'T PULL THROUGH THE WATER ) 

ARMS - FOR BALANCE 

1. EXTENSION OF SHOULDERS FOR MORE TORQUE AND DRIVE

 2. REACH AND FOLLOW THROUGH WITH PADDLING 

HANDS - GRIPPING BOARD WHEN GOING THROUGH WAVES

1. PUSHING UP TO GET ON FEET

2. CAN ALSO REPRESENT EYES TO GUIDE DIRECTION

WAIST - PIVOT FROM WAIST FOR MORE TORGUE IN TURNS

1. BEGINNERS CAN BE TAUGHT TO USE WAIST ON UP AS ONE UNIT FOR BASIC TURNS

2. DO NOT BEND FORWARD FROM WAIST - USE KNEES ( THIS WILL CAUSE STUDENTS TO FALL FORWARD )

HIPS / BUTTOCKS -  FOR DRIVE AND WEIGTH ADJUSTMENTS

1. KEEPING HIPS TUCKED IN HELPS KEEP THE STUDENT CENTERED AND BALANCED

2.  STICKING BUTT OUT (STINK - BUGGING) MAY CAUSE STUDENT TO FALL FORWARD  ( IMPROPER POSITIONING )

3. THRUST FORWARD HELPS WHEN HANGING TEN

KNEES - USED AS SHOCK ABSORBERS FOR BALANCE

1. USE KNEES TO BEND AND SQUAT FOR PROJECTING OUT OF TURNS

2. DO NOT GO TO KNEES WHEN GETTING TO FEET

3. IF THE STUDENT IS HAVING TROUBLES GETTING TO THEIR FEET MAKE SURE THEIR BACK KNEE IS NOT STRAIGHT MAKING THEM EXTEND TOO FAR TO GET UP

ANKLES -  LOOS AND FLEXIBLE

FOOT  - PROPER PLACEMENT IS FOUNDATION FOR THE REST OF THE BODY POSITIONING

1. TOO FAR APART DOES NOT ALLOW STUDENT TO TURN 

2. TOO CLOSE AND THERE WILL BE NO STABILITY

3. FRONT FOOT POINTING FORWARD WILL CAUSE STUDENT TO FALL BACKWARDS

4. USED  ON LONGBOARDS TO WALK UP AND DOWN THE DECK TO KEEP THE BOARD IN TRIM AND GET TO THE NOSE FOR NOSE RIDING  

5. PLACE OVER THE FINS OR ON TAIL OF BOARD FOR TURNING 

TOES - FOR SAFETY KEEP TOES AND BALL OF FOOT ON THE TAIL OF THE BOARD

1. TO GO OVER WAVES ENABLING STUDENT TO PUSH OFF TAIL

2. PUT WEIGHT ON THE TAIL TO PREVENT FROM NOSE-DIVING 3. USED TO HELP MAKING SLIGHT WEIGHT ADJUSTMENTS FORWARD OR BACKWARDS WHILE IN THE PRONE POSITION

SURF STORY: Shark Rumors

I love surf humor. Like that rumor Dale started about the Mako Shark at Blackies! I thought it was true because my own experience at Newport. I even thought it might have been the same shark except the one that bumped me was too big to see all at once!

I started my own rumor once and it spread like wild fire. It was during the 1996 World Championships in Huntington Beach (USA took 1st!). There was a big swell so in between heats me and a couple of friends jammed down to 56th street in Newport to get some good south swell barrels. In the process of duck diving I got slammed on the bottom and came up with a black eye. When we got back to H.B. we told everyone I got in a fight and ended up beating this guy up! Just living up to the Danger Woman name. Before we could stop it people were talking about it everywhere. I even heard these guys that were sitting behind me on the beach saying how they were there and witnessed the whole thing. Other guys saying they saw it down at trestles. I did not know any of these guys and obviously they didn't know me or they would have seen me sitting right there. Imagine what I didn't hear! Some people gave me sh#$ for fighting and others a pat on the back for not tolerating the bully. I felt really stupid and will never do that again. I still hear about it even though we told everyone right away it was just a joke. I guess the black eye was pretty convincing!  

I just hope Dale doesn't run into my SHARK!

SURF STORY: 2010 Surfmania

TILE ART 16 x 16

BOLSA CHICA    Photo: Pam

Can't say I didn't warn you about how regular I would blog. Truth is the surf has been so fun and consistent this year that between that and creating more art I haven't done much of anything else!!!

PAINTING: Art on the Beach

BOLSA AFTER THE STORM

 NOR CAL GLO #2

I drove down to Bolsa Chica yesterday morning to deliver a painting for a new customer of mine (Painted down at trails between surf sessions a couple of weeks ago), when I was unexpectedly invited to a going away party for Yuriko and Danny. Yuriko got a good job in Hawaii so Danny figured why not!!!

To show my appreciation for their Aloha so open heartily welcoming me, I drew them a quick sketch to remember Bolsa by. I had fun drawing on the beach and sharing some of my sketch books with my friends. We all enjoyed the feast they provided!

More and more you will see me painting and drawing on the beach. Feel free to check it out for it may be 

THE ART YOU MUST HAVE!!!

DANGER WOMAN SURF MOVIE: Don't Be A TERB

Many years ago during the making of "SAFE SURFING WITH DANGER WOMAN", an instructional video for the novice surfer, we filmed a comedy stint to put in the film on "WHAT NOT TO DO" It did not make it into the film but I edited it down to a couple of minutes from over an hour of footage.

I still can't believe TERB did this for over an hour!!!

Now you too can watch this short clip on HOW NOT TO SURF on YOUTUBE.

Terb Relmohcszeister DON'T BE A TERB!

PLEASE DO NOT TRY THIS AT HOME

THE ACTORS AND ACTRESS IN THIS FILM ARE PROFESSIONAL KOOKS

LIFE TIP: Emotion Behind the Pain-Enabling

I know I have not blogged for a while now but the surf has been calling me! Although there has been some sizable waves the conditions have not been epic. Still I managed to pick off some good bombs and even a few barrels!

The first day of the last swell I came in with some shoulder pain that became excruciating. I did not want to miss the waves and had no idea how I hurt it? I called my Chiropractor who is also an incredible healer and after she adjustment me she talked me through the emotional issues behind the pain. Not seeing anything apparent at first I soon realized that I was enabling some people and carrying that burden. 

There is a fine balance between helping someone and enabling them. 

As soon as I realized this and got refocused I felt the weight being lifted off of me. Within a few hours I felt much better physically and was able to go surfing the following day! 

I have also been in my creating mode painting and making some of my magical, colorful tiles. Along with writing my book and helping with a movie script I am learning how to network online (Thanks to my kids help!!!).

SURF STORY:Bumped By A Shark

 PHOTO: Tom Cozad www.newportsurfshots.com

It is a new year, new decade in fact. This time of year makes me think of how much I have progressed since the previous year, decade. Life is always about change. You can resist if you want but everything is changing anyhow so it is best to learn to flow. Life is like surfing, the wave is always changing and if you don't flow with it you will be left behind. 

I think the most profound thing that happen to me this past year was getting BUMPED BY A SHARK, enough to knock the wind out of me and bruise a few ribs. I was at 36th Street in Newport Beach and it was about 1:00 in the afternoon. The swell was a solid 4' - 6' with a few bigger sets, the winds put a bump on the surface and with the tide dropping quickly there were a lot of rips and some hard pounding close-outs but there were some good barrels and only one other person out. The guy had wiped out close to the Jetty so I was watching to make sure he was O.K. when I got sucker punched in the kidney area. That was surprising enough knowing no one else was out but when I turned around to see what hit me all I saw was a portion of a big gray shark that was already diving back under the water. It was murky out so that was all I saw but, that was enough. I was pretty much in shock. It happen so fast I couldn't believe it. I told the other surfer that I just got hit by a BIG SHARK and he scrambled onto his board and frantically paddled in before all the words were even out of my mouth! 

Always following my intuition I knew to get out of the water but I also knew that I did not want to paddle anywhere near the other guy. I figured if the shark was going to go after anyone it was going to be the one in fear splashing water out of control. I did come in and I did paddle faster than usual but I did it CALMLY AND WITH LOVING THOUGHTS towards the shark as one of my brothers that gave me a friendly bump, warning me to get out of the water for only reasons God knows. It serves me to believe this so I don't go into thoughts of fear. I have seen so many sharks in my life surfing (Even in places where the locals swear there aren't any) that I choose to believe they are here to PROTECT ME, not eat me. I was told once by an old Hawaiian that I was blessed to see sharks and not be eaten for that means they are my Amakua (Guardians). Yet still I handle every situation as it comes up and I have gotten out of the water on many occasions for no apparent reason  just because I was guided by my inner voice to. 

Fortunate for me my chiropractor, friend, was on the beach and I was able to get adjusted immediately! She thought I was rushing in so she wouldn't be late for her next appointment. (Anyone who has ever gone surfing with me knows I am not so prompt about getting out of the water). 

I traveled quite a bit this past year and had an encounters with  crocodiles, numerous sharks, barracudas and even monkeys! But those will be stories for later. What I find most interesting is that of all the places I have been around the world the gnarliest experiences I have ever had have been right here in Newport Beach. The other time when I was sitting on my board and suddenly found my entire foot (Past my ankle) inside the mouth of something. Luckily I scared it as much as it scared me and it let go and swam off but not before its tail or something slapped me in the calf and ripped my wetsuit. It was red tide so it was to murky to see what it was but I am FOREVER GRATEFUL that I still have two feet and am alive to share these stories with you!