I have surfed all around the world in daylight and by moonlight and have had more close encounters than i care to think about! Being grateful is one of the keys to a happy life and I am grateful everyday as often as I can think about it. At any moment anything can change so learn to live and appreciate the moment.
Having what you think are logs suddenly sink underwater and disappear while you are paddling out in a Costa Rican river mouth around 4:00 a.m is one of those moments where you realize how quickly things can change, for better or worse. Feeling your whole foot inside the mouth of something during red tide when you can't see your own leg in the orange murky waters right here in Newport is another. We already discussed being bumped by a big shark here too! And here I thought it was a dead ocean!
I have had more shark sightings, sea snakes, crocs and even weird unidentifiable albino snake/eels at Bolsa Chica dealings for a life time. I see sharks where locals swear they don't exist. (even Santa Cruz every surf session but I don't believe them there). I have had sharks circle me, a pack of them circling in the line-up when I am the only one out on an outer reef 2 miles out to sea. I've had one swim so close I could kick it when I was surfing on a 4'4 waist deep with no way to put my arms and legs up (one good reason to ride a longboard) deep down in Mexico. A pelican dive bomb for a fish missing my head by inches, sting rays bumping into my shins, stone fish hiding under my feet, sea urchins poking me and lots of poisons animals the natives have pointed out but I could understand what they were saying! Should I go on? "What is it? Why me? Am I more aware or do my own fears bring it on?
My only defense is to love all the CRITTERS IN THE WATER unconditionally and be detached from the outcome.(not as easy for me on land but I am working on it!) Easier said than done but it has kept me alive this long! I still screamed like a little girl yesterday when something swam right into my leg in waist deep water at Huntington Beach.
And you all thought they called me Danger Woman because you thought I was so brave! I just want to surf so I either have to deal with it or stay out of the water and staying out of the water is just not an option!!! Of course i don't have to paddle out into 20' surf either but i am scared either way so I might as well go big!
I know I am Divinely guided and protected. Living so close to death keeps me feeling alive and appreciative for sure.
Great points in your article on what kind of things may be out there! I will agree while we must be safe you have to also keep a cool head on your shoulders or you will never surf again! To me never being in the water again would seem a whole lot scarier! I applaud your braveness as a woman! Anything could be out there and lose it's way the best thing is to try and stay vigilant without getting freaked out! I surf with my family so my concern becomes 4x!
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